baking holidays nostalgia travels

To St. Pat, with Cake

17 March 2008

cake-beer.jpg
[Guinness chocolate cake, with Guinness, March 2008.]

Otherwise known as “amateur night” by certain parties, St. Patrick’s Day to me is soda bread, Altan, Joyce’s Ulysses, which I attempt to battle through every few years or so (it never quite works; I think I need an explanatory text alongside), and — of course — Guinness.

Ages ago I came across a recipe from Nigella’s old column in the New York Times (“At My Table,” which, incidentally, I loved the name of) for a deep, dark chocolate cake made extraordinary by one special ingredient: a cup of Guinness stout. I made this for, I think, a birthday quite a long time ago as well as for a going-away, but it’s been years since I’ve even bought a Guinness, much less baked with it.

But today is the American celebration of St. Patrick, one of Ireland’s patron saints, and because Guinness is so very Irish (I know; I passed the brewery in Dublin though we decided to sample Jameson instead), I couldn’t help but bake this cake in small commemoration. If only I could send a slice across the country to the true Guinness-lover; unfortunately, I’m afraid this will have to do.

beer-glass.jpg

Ireland — as I’ve written about before — has a certain hold on my heart, even though I was there so briefly. Sometimes I like to think it’s because a few relatives originated there; that heritage, filtered down through the generations, has made me dreamily miss its green hills and grey, churning sea though in reality I’ve hardy explored the country at all. Either way, I’m often plotting and planning to go back, even if only mentally.

It’s tempting to romanticize Ireland — The emerald mountains! Slipping into a pub for a pint! Reels upon rousing reels played long into the night! Slices of thick soda bread spread with sweet butter! Roaring fires made from peat moss! — but the truth is far more complicated. For every soothing Altan song about horses and misty mornings, there is Christy Moore’s biting commentary about displacement, and early U2’s politcal manifestos set to music. There is the lingering aftermath of the Troubles. There are the roads described as “a purposeless fragment of highway built to make the starving work for their welfare shilling.” There is — as Nuala O’Faolain wrote — “Ireland’s tragic history of emigration and depopulation.”

But Ireland, oh, Ireland, you are beautiful nonetheless — perhaps even more so because of your past, and I cannot help but appreciate you for it. Even in my two short days wandering your Dublin streets I was captivated; there was a bitter wind off the water that made me wish, in July, I’d brought more than just a sweater, and the sun only came out here and there, but I couldn’t complain because there I was, at last. To me, oh lovely country, you are late-night pints and sitting in a park outside the writer’s museum, a bus ride down winding roads with flashing views of an iron-grey sea, tree branches that brushed the windows as we passed by. You are rain and sun and Gaelic street signs and whiskey. You are are complex, and endlessly fascinating; and how little I know of you, after all.

batter.jpg
[Cake batter, March 2008.]

One of the best things about making this recipe — and which I’d forgotten, having left it for so long — is that it’s very quick and easy to assemble. There’s no need for an electric mixer; like some of my favorite vegan recipes, all that’s required is a whisk to put together the batter (you might want to use a mixer for the frosting, however, though I didn’t) and within only about 10 minutes the cake is slipped into the oven. Taste-wise, it’s a beer-and-chocolate-lover’s dream: the overwhelming flavor is of rich chocolate with just a hint of stout from the cup of Guinness. Topped with a smooth cream cheese frosting, the slight bitterness from the beer is hardly noticeable and the cake’s dense, moist crumb is ever so slightly addictive. The end result is a portrait of a pint transformed into a cake. If only I’d been able to imprint a four-leaf clover on top!

glass.jpg

One need not celebrate St. Patrick’s Day (or be Irish, or Irish-American) to enjoy a slice of this cake — indeed, this is the first time I’ve made it for the holiday, and it works just fine as birthday or everyday cake. I would argue that one doesn’t even need to like beer (but who doesn’t love Guinness, hm? Remember, it’s for health!) to enjoy it. But if you can’t wrap your culinary palate around a marriage of beer and chocolate, there’s always a Jameson chocolate tarte or, to go a non-alcoholic route, soda bread, with butter and jam.

If you do decide to indulge, this cake is best enjoyed with an Irish coffee, a cold glass of its namesake brew, or a strong, hot cup of tea.

g0cake.jpg

Chocolate Guinness Cake, adapted from Nigella Lawson

I thought it appropriate that I broke out my Nigella measuring cups for the first time to make this recipe; I’d been eyeing them for quite a long time, and when they happened to be on sale at Anthropologie, I snapped them up.

For the cake:
Butter for pan
1 cup Guinness stout
10 tablespoons (1 stick plus 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter
6 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
2 cups sugar
6 tablespoons sour cream
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

For the topping:
1 1/4 cups confectioners’ sugar
8 ounces cream cheese at room temperature
1/2 cup heavy cream

1. For the cake: heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch springform pan and line with parchment paper. In a large saucepan, combine Guinness and butter. Place over medium-low heat until butter melts, then remove from heat. Add cocoa and superfine sugar, and whisk to blend.

2. In a small bowl, combine sour cream, eggs and vanilla; mix well. Add to Guinness mixture. Add flour and baking soda, and whisk again until smooth. Pour into buttered pan, and bake until risen and firm, 45 minutes to one hour. Place pan on a wire rack and cool completely in pan.

3. For the topping: Using a food processor or by hand, mix confectioners’ sugar to break up lumps. Add cream cheese and blend until smooth. Add heavy cream, and mix until smooth and spreadable.

4. Remove cake from pan and place on a platter or cake stand. Ice top of cake only, so that it resembles a frothy pint of Guinness.

Yield: One 9-inch cake (12 servings).

  • » Recipes: Chocolate Guinness Cake 25 July 2008 at 8:46 am

    […] -Nicole makes it for St. Pat’s day. […]

  • Marlene Dotterer 24 March 2008 at 4:45 pm

    I will never escape the grip of Ireland. Why would I want to?

    We spent 12 lovely days there in 2003. My spirit was there before I ever went and it’s there, still. I don’t know why or how; I just know that Ireland is my True Home.

    That cake? I have a similar version and Oh My – Yes. I didn’t make it when your parents were over for our late St. Patrick’s Day dinner, but it was a strong temptation. I was trying to be good and fix us all mostly Healthy Food. So, we had strawberries and whipped cream sweetened with Stevia for dessert.

    I’ll write all about that dinner in my blog tomorrow. But that cake is worth making anytime, just as you said. My version calls for a frosting made from heavy cream and chocolate. That’s it. Not only super-easy, but too good to imagine!

  • Lucy 19 March 2008 at 5:00 pm

    Ireland seems to be calling me at the moment.

    Reading Dennis Cotter (chef at the vegetarian ‘Cafe Paradiso’ in Cork) has made me yearn for the cool weather produce, the green grass and that Irish wit.

    Ulyssess? Good luck!

  • amanda 18 March 2008 at 10:38 am

    For the very reasons you just wrote about, I’ve been yearning to visit Ireland. Despite the cold weather and shaky political environment, the people and the country continue to thrive. I didn’t celebrate St. Patty’s day at all (as I am not Irish)but if I had, this cake would have been made. Simply delicious, moist and easy. Just the way I like it :)

  • Patricia Scarpin 18 March 2008 at 9:23 am

    I love beer but have never tried Guiness – that cake looks delish!

  • justrun 17 March 2008 at 8:01 pm

    Oh, Ireland. Me too.

    And I think I need to make this cake. I never make cake.